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In an exclusive New Statesman analysis of the contents of five boxes received by five different individuals around the country, we calculate that the average cost of one of these boxes from Tesco, including delivery costs, would be £26. Because many of the smaller portions and quantities in the boxes are not available in supermarkets (eg. ten tea bags, ten coffee sachets, miniature soaps, and single loose toilet rolls) the actual cost of those items from Tesco would be lower still.
Example of a typical box:
Two kilos potatoes
One kilo carrots
Three 30 ounce tins of tomato soup
One 30 ounce tin of baked beans
One tin of chicken meatballs
One tin of mushy peas
One 500g bag of long grain rice
One jar of Bolognese sauce
One 500g packet of spaghetti
Two litres of long life milk
Five apples
Five oranges
One packet of biscuits
One box of Cheerios
Ten tea bags
Ten instant coffee sachets
One frozen loaf of sliced white bread
Two miniature hotel-style shower gels
One miniature soap, the size of a 50p piece
Two loose toilet rolls
However, we do know that 4,724,611 boxes were distributed in England alone under the scheme (
a figure revealed via a Freedom of Information request). The £208m contract, divided by this figure, gives us an average cost of over £44 per box.
In March, the wholesalers' supply chains were working well, and – with their hospitality customers out of action – both
Brakes and
Bidfood had enough surplus to begin selling food directly to the public for the first time.
During this period supermarkets began selling their own boxes of weekly essentials. The price of Aldi’s box, which contained similar contents to the government's shielding boxes, dropped from £25 to £19.99 in July, with free delivery. A box from Morrisons contained far more fresh produce, including refrigerated meat and cheese, at a cost of
£35 including delivery.
Although no party will disclose what money was spent on warehousing, picking, packing and delivery, Brakes and Bidfood are already big food wholesalers with substantial experience in logistics and supply. Both already have a significant national network – this is why they were given the contracts, after all.
The New Statesman understands that both companies delivered all the food boxes to shielding individuals, with no need to use third-party couriers, and during packing and delivery the food was kept at room temperature, which suggests low refrigeration costs.
Sandy Lucas also reveals that, by June, the delivery drivers were simply leaving her boxes on her doorstep without knocking. The New Statesman also witnessed this practice first-hand: a neighbour of one of our reporters had a box that was left outside for nearly a full day during the heatwave; she hadn’t been informed it was there.
How, then, did picking, packing and delivering a box of items that the wholesalers already had in their supply chains incur, at £44, a 69 per cent mark-up on the £26 retail price of a supermarket delivering a similar box?
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The government’s food parcel scheme was delivered at massive speed and scale. It provided a lifeline of basic provisions to those suddenly trapped inside, unable to find a delivery slot at an online supermarket, and with no one to shop for them. But there are alternative ways to deliver better quality food in a crisis.
The
“triage” system used locally in Greenwich for non-shielding vulnerable residents, for example, has been praised by food charities. Up and running within two weeks, this allowed those who could afford it to pay for their boxes, and also provided nutritious food that was appropriate for those with limited capacity to prepare meals (for example, ingredients that could be cooked using a kettle).
[see also: The busiest ever month for UK foodbanks exposes a fatal flaw in our pandemic response]
A decade of austerity has led to
councils cutting their meals on wheels services which, had they still been running, could have provided more nutritious meals during lockdown.
“It doesn’t have to be this way,” says Simon Shaw, a researcher from Sustain who studied such services in different countries last year. In France, Italy and South Korea, he found evidence of “ambitious, vibrant, enterprising meals services that provided tasty nutritious food alongside regular welfare checks and other support and advice”. Most importantly, these services “have flexibility built in, so in the event of an emergency – like extreme weather or more recently a pandemic – they can scale up to meet extra demand. This also happened in the UK where remaining meals on wheels services were able to respond quickly during the lockdown.”
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The New Statesman understands that the price assessment Defra carried out before the contracts were awarded was made in the context of shocks to the food supply system due to stockpiling at the time, and lack of capacity among supermarkets to deliver so much at such short notice. Throughout the food box programme, recipients were encouraged to opt out if they no longer required the supplies, and the department is satisfied that the programme achieved its objectives within budget.
But the questions remain: Why did these boxes of basic wholesale foodstuffs cost so much more than at a supermarket?
As per the wording of Defra’s contracts with Bidfood and Brakes, does £44 a box really represent “good value for money in all the prevailing circumstances having regard to the current Covid-19 crisis”?
As the prospect of a second nationwide lockdown looms, people who have been shielding remain unsure whether they will be officially instructed to stay at home permanently. For Sandy Lucas, subsisting on the box scheme is one of the worst aspects of another lockdown. After a career in the Prison Service and the Manchester Market Police, Lucas says she would be better fed behind bars; prisoners, she says, “would riot” if given the food she received. “I’ve seen soup kitchens in Manchester in the middle of the night give better food out.”
Rather than “throwing these boxes at our front doors again”, she would prefer help from the government with her rocketing utility bills, which are much higher than previous years because of all the time spent indoors.
“We’ve had to stay in, our bills have gone through the roof, and they’ve given us nothing but those boxes,” she says. “They’ve locked us up, pushed us away, treated us like we don’t exist. We feel like a forgotten army – but this army might have a sting in its tail next election.”
A spokesperson for Defra said: “The contract with Brakes and Bidfood delivered more than 4.8 million food parcels as part of an unprecedented support package to help our most clinically vulnerable people shield from coronavirus.
“Thorough market analysis and engagement was undertaken before awarding the contract, and the cost of the food boxes was independently assessed and benchmarked to ensure the best use of taxpayer money.”
A spokesperson for Brakes had “nothing to add” to Defra’s response.
Bidfood did not respond to repeated requests for comment.