I was thinking exactly the same, which is why I originally mentioned the article is in some aspects more focused on clientele rather than quality.A minority of "craft beer" establishments are now a place to be seen at, and the quality of what's being served isn't the most important thing.
A couple of years ago, I stopped drinking in the Philharmonic for this reason. Bought a pint and it was atrocious: tart and cloudy as hell!
The young girl on the bar, not much over the age of eighteen and experienced in WKD, told me and my friends it was meant to taste like that.
I disagreed. Her colleagues, with an average age of twenty, disagreed with my friends and I after having a few sips of my pint.
Now, we'd individually drank more than they have had collectively, but they wouldn't have it. Eventually got a different drink... equally as poor.
The Philharmonic has great surroundings and the atmosphere can be great (I'd drank there for years), but they used this to attract their clientele.
However, they'd actually given up on looking after the ale. The toilets may be fantastic, but I go to drink ale not to enjoy a piddle.
Unfortunately as you mention, a few places are like this: they sell real ale but they don't actually look after it. It's almost become a clique.
I even saw a burger place in Liverpool One selling cooled 'craft ale' in a can the other day. Had a try it; tasted awful. What's the point?