The two sides of the Timmelsjoch neatly encapsulate the two countries. The Austrian side is wide, well engineered roads. The Italian side is like spaghetti dropped on the mountain. I think over 40 switchbacks, half a dozen tunnels, and roads a bit like a farm track.It wasn't too bad. A few motorbikes and the odd car. As I was scoffing a strudel at the top, about 20 sports cars turned up in the car park. Glad I missed that. There's a toll booth around a third of the way up, so that probably keeps traffic down (it's free for bikes).
I'm aiming to do both sides of the Timmelsjoch tomorrow. I expect that to be a lot busier.