I made a weekend of it in Manchester and Liverpool. Along with the National Football Museum (highly recommended) and a mystery Beatles bus tour (surprisingly enjoyable), I did the Old Trafford tour with my United-supporting pal. I had done the museum tour there in 2009. I did the museum and stadium this time around. Wow. The overriding feeling was this is a club in massive decline, riddled with uncertainty and an overweening sense of entitlement despite it all.
Two old lads took the tour. One was mouthy, the other a sentimental 85-year-old. Some gems along the route: "We don't have a big screen because if we put one in - as we do for the rugby - it means we have to close 3,000 seats in a stand."
I snickered to myself. Old Trafford cannot put in a screen because, basically, it has nowhere to suspend it from without blocking seats.
From the Sir Alex Ferguson Stand, I felt the stadium looked...small. It looks big from the Sir Bobby Charlton Stand (which is the smaller one), but it was quite something to perceive such a different scale depending on the side of the stadium you were in. It was fascinating to hear that the old tunnel on the half-way line - which basically survived the wartime bombings - was closed because they couldn't get a fire engine in after the Taylor Report. This is why they use the retractable tunnel in the corner since the Fergie heyday. A pity, I felt, but understandable. The old tunnel had real history - players had to "run it" because the surface was too risky to take at walking pace with studs. Even more interesting was the fact that the home dressing room is comparatively tiny - and was half the size until recently.
The old boys were quiety critical of the ownership and leadership of the club. The cult of Fergie is strong. Everyone since is massively in his shadow. At the end of the tour, in the media room, they were embarrassed to tell people that they would be charged for any photos: "The owners...". I felt a little sorry for them. Their evident pride at having "the biggest club stadium in England" was corroded by a sense that the club was clearly in an uncertain era. They informed us that the media are strictly warned not to ask about "the state of Old Trafford."
The museum tour was nice, but felt less grand than it did in 2009. Then they also included the shirts of superstars who United players swapped with on international duty: Maradona, Rummenigge, Platini... This time around it felt more pared down. The Busby Babes section was affecting. Duncan Edwards's telegram to his landlady informing her he wouldn't be home on time (because they expected the flight back to be cancelled) was heartbreaking and so human. The Ballon d'Or trophies of Best, Law, and Charlton were present...but no sign of the Football League trophy - the "Lady" - in the trophy room. I saw that the following day at the National Football Museum - a real highlight - and also, strangely, George Best's Ballon d'Or trophy. Hmmm...
Also there? The Canon League Trophy... Everton have a massive opportunity with the new stadium. We really do.
